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90 degree turns in sewer lines

Discovering clogged septic system piping during the process of buying a home or after you own means proper diagnosis is needed before a repair can begin:. This article discusses how to diagnose and repair clogged septic systems or piping. Septic backups, failures, breakouts, odors: This document provides advice for home buyers who are buying a home with a private septic system: homes using a septic tank and drainfield or similar soil absorption system.

This article series outlines what goes wrong with septic systems and their various components and describes septic inspection and test methods in detailexplains how to be sure your septic inspection and septic test are conducted properly, tells you where to get more septic system information about a given property, and warns of unsanitary or dangerous site conditions.

Distribution piping connects the house drain to the septic tank, running between the building and the tank inlet. More distribution piping connects the septic tank outlet to the distribution box and from there to the leach field. Distribution pipes can settle especially in new constructionbreak, become blocked or clogged, or become invaded and blocked by tree roots or soils as shown in the first photo above.

Clay pipes also break and faerun elven cities a tendency to become blocked by tree roots at their joints as happened here.

90 degree turns in sewer lines

You won't know what kind of piping is installed until it is excavated, but the age of the property may be a clue. Homes built from the 's on, certainly from the 's on, use cast iron or more often plastic ABS or PVC piping for these connections, as shown in the second photo above where we were replacing a root and mud-clogged clay sewer line with a new plastic line.

See " Drain Line Replacement diagnosing a clogged drain leads to drain line replacement" for a step by step photo-illustrated guide to diagnosing failed septic piping or sewer line and the subsequent drain replacement procedure. Distribution boxes serve as a connection point to distribute effluent which arrives from the septic tank outlet and is to be sent into two or more individual leach field lines. Distribution boxes "D-Boxes" can settle or tip. A damaged or tipped D-box will fail to divert effluent uniformly among the effluent receiving drainfield lines, causing flooding of one leach line.

If you see depressions suggesting that there are four leach lines at the property and the end of just one of them is producing wet soil or surface-breakout of effluent, we'd suspect a tipped D-box. Photo courtesy U. Drainfield piping is usually constructed of perforated pipe buried in gravel-filled trenches.

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It receives effluent from the D-box and allows it to percolate or seep into the soil around the trench where added filtering and bacterial treatment occur.Questions and discussions about toilets, sinks, faucets, drainage, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, water quality, and other exclusively PLUMBING related issues.

Please refrain from asking where to purchase a product, or business, pricing, or legal questions, or for contractor referrals, or any questions not related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. This site is free, ad free, pop-up free and made possible by:. They then went 10', put on a Problem is, I am not sure if either of those options meets code.

Any help is appreciated. Tks John Pics - Edited 1 times. Does it have to be perfect coming in the house? If the main is higher, a 90 can drop into a wye and Hopefully you have a good relationship with the installer, because it's best to go to them before the inspector for the benefit of the doubt They are rare enough in cast iron, that few supply house personnel have ever seen one. But if everything is "square" with your fittings, I do not see any problem with the installation. The elevation is not a problem as I have a grinder in the basement and the 1st floor above is gravity drain to the septic system.

The problem is that the main line to the house sort of snakes it's way to the house wall. I would guess that the plumber will do something to get it straight through the wall but my desire is to have it go in aas straight a line as possible from the tank to the house. Not criscrossing along the way. The tank was angled to get a better approach to the drain field. Unfortunately, no consideration was given as to what angle the tank should be set.

These guys said they have trouble with their 45's. Boy, was that an understatement. Anyway, the inspector has signed off on the drain field and tank part but is withholding final until the line is hooked-up to the house. I don't believe there would be any problem with approval, I just don't like the way the main line zig-zags to the house. Tks John. After calling several supply houses, I found one who will order it for me.

I realize that if the job is thought out in advance, one does not have a need for such an angle as If your drain snake won't make a turn, it could be for a number of reasons. One possibility is that you're using a snake that is too hefty for the job.

Another possibility is that it's catching on a snag caused by pipe corrosion. A third scenario could be that it's contacting the clog at the point at which you think it should be turning a corner.

140 North Eighth Street

If your snake is too big for the job, try a smaller one. If it has hit a clog, now is the time to crank it. Just as plumbing pipes come in various lengths and diameters, drain augers come in various sizes to match them. If you try to use one of these on your toilet, the snake won't go down the toilet, nor will it make it past the first bend in a sink P-trap, and it will probably cause some damage.

They are designed to wend their way through the internal trap of the toilet as far as the waste opening and maybe a little farther. Sometimes they are wound into a coil in a plastic drum with a handle. The proper way to use a snake is to insert the head into the drain and push very slowly without cranking.

If you try to force it, it can bend back on itself and actually come out of the drain. Push gently and slowly, and if the auger is the right one for the job, it should slide smoothly through the pipe. When you can't push the snake any farther, that usually means that it has hit the obstruction and it's time to crank slowly to work the head through the gunk.

When you do this, material will collect on the head, so you have to pull the snake out periodically to clean it. If you pull it out and there's nothing on the head, it could be because the clog is composed of a material the head can't penetrate. If you suspect the snake is getting stuck in a corner, try operating the crank in reverse. This makes the head wobble back and forth, but because you're cranking counterclockwise, it can't collect any debris.

If the bend in the pipe is really at fault, the wobbling of the head should help the snake clear the corner. If there's an obstruction, the snake will still get stuck. You can't always clear a sink clog with a snake. Some clogs are caused by materials that become too hard in the drain for the snake to penetrate.

When a snake doesn't work, plunging probably won't either, so the best strategy is to disconnect the P-trap and clean it. While you have the trap off, it's a good idea to insert the auger directly in the waste line, just in case the clogs happen to be there.

The snake might not have been able to reach the clog from the sink opening, but now it might be able to. Chris Deziel is a contractor, builder and general fix-it pro who has been active in the construction trades for 40 years.

He has degrees in science and humanities and years of teaching experience. An avid craftsman and musician, Deziel began writing on home improvement topics in Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story. Share this article. Chris Deziel. Show Comments.Functionality is another thing. Fewer elbows mean less clog potential. Elbows make clean out much harder, too.

Can I include 90 degree bend in a waste pipe coming from a new toilet?

One option is to bend out with a 45, pass the tree and bend back in line again with another set of 45's. It's also possible to heat bend PVC so that there us a curve but the inside is smooth, which takes cleaning equipment very nicely. Main thing is to avoid any sharp change in direction. No elbows allowed. You can put in what they call a sweeping Tee. It makes a gradual turn, not an abrupt turn, and the other port needs to go to a clean out, so you can feed an auger in if it ever has a problem.

It will clog, sewage lines have a cleanout before they leave the basement, why would you put an elbow in it? Update: the sewer line comes out of my my and i need to put an elbow in it to bypass a huge tree in my yard and then put another elbow in it to get a sstraitt shot at the city sewer line if idon'tt i have to have that tree removed.

Answer Save. Legality depends on local code if applicable. Steve N Lv 7. Call me and I'll move the trees roots or it itself. How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer. RedNek Lv 6. Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.Log in or Sign up. Hi, Hopefully someone can help me with this question. What I did was just move the drain pipe over 12" from the original layout and add a drain for the laundry room.

The question is can I do this with a 90 degree bend in the corners? The back corner against the wall matches the original layout with a 90 degree corner. The front was at 45 degree, but with moving it over I put in a 90 degree corner. I read in the Minnesota plumbing codes that a change of direction has to be a 45 degree bend. Will this pass inspection at the 2 90 degree turns? Thanks in advance. Probably not, in my area you would at a minimum use a street 45 and a regular 45 to make a combined 90 degree turn.

I would change it to 45's and finish up. Dunbar PlumbingSep 12, But in any case, I would have tried to simplify the installation so it would be more of a straight line. It looks like the shower is not vented. TerrySep 12, Thanks for for replies. Here is a little more detail. The green shows what the builder put in in It must have passed inspection then right? I moved it to give me more room in the bathroom, and to add a drain in the laundry room.

Will this be better, or do I neeed to put two 45 degree bends on the top also? The Green shows a toilet with a laundry tray wet vented over it. The additions show plumbing that would not pass inspections. The floor drain should have it's own vent. The reason for the vents, is to prevent the traps from siphoning when other plumbing is used. For that matter, it also prevents siphoning when "they" are used also.

The reason you "don't" want the traps to siphon, is the smell you get in your home. TerrySep 13, The pipe leading to the floor drain is a 2" pipe. With the drain being vented, does everything else look ok? Thanks, Jim. The 2" floor drain, sink and laundry tray can be vented with a 1. The toilet should have a 2" vent. Vents can be tied together at 42" above the floor. You should have, as hj mentioned, a cleanout for the 3" line.

That's why as plumbers, we work like the dickens to keep all directional changes to a minimum.

90 degree bend in sewer drain pipe?

In my area, first floor drain doesn't have to be vented but a second one does within 10 feet of the opening.I want to add a new toilet. There's a sewer pipe a few feet away that I would like to tap into. I can't put the toilet right above that pipe because there are things in the way, but here is what I would like to do.

Please tell me if it is feasible. From the toilet, the waste pipe will go down about inches. Then the waste pipe will turn about 95 degrees or so towards the sewer line. The pipe will go about 4 feet towards the sewer line and then turn down around 85 degrees to connect to the sewer line. Is this feasible? This means that there are two relatively sharp turns in the waste pipe before it meets the sewer line. It also means that the slope of the pipe is 5 degrees.

Will the pipe clog or should it be ok? Also, can I connect a shower drain and a sink drain into that 4 foot stretch of pipe so those drain into the sewer too? If anything, that'll probably help with any potential clogging, right? The more bends that you have in the pipe give more opportunity for clogs. However, it may work as long as you have a good slope on all the pipe. I really don't recommend the sharp bends and think there are probably alternatives.

Reconsider to see if there are. The shower and sind should be no problem. Good luck. Your angles may be to tight try using a couple of 45s and making your angles more open giving less chance for clogging.

That sharp of turns would probably cause clogs. Even if they didn't, you left out the venting of each fixture you are trying to install.

Every fixture needs it's own vent. Click on the link I have provided and look at each fixture and you will see how they are vented.

Jeremy B. Answer Save. How do you think about the answers? You can sign in to vote the answer. The sink and shower shouldn't be a problem. Paul Daly. Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.Remember Me? Education Advanced Search. Results 1 to 13 of George Sharrett Guest. Hello, Is there a limit to how many 90's can be in the TPR pipe?

The last one barly visible tucked behind the duct sent the pipe horizontal to the left I figure it would take at least 3 more to get it to the outside wall where I saw it emerge.

That makes, lets see I used to have a tag off of a TPRV on my desk and I am almost certain it mentioned a number of allowed 90' bends in the pipe. Can anyone help with this? JPG Everything I've seen said 4 but it's been awhile since I've researched it. What does the manufacturer say? And you know a single length of PEX could have made all that's visible in the picture unnecessary We know why you fly: because the bus is too expensive and the railroad has a dress code Miller Guest.

90 degree turns in sewer lines

Four, unless. George you might want to check and see if your area requires it to discharge into an air-gap within the same room. That would make the number of 90's a moot question. Phillip Smith Guest. In Code Check Plumbing third edition it says Max of 4 90 degree elbows and max length 30 ft.

Thank you all for the information. I stated in my report that some manufactures suggest no more than 4 90's and that there no less than 9 on this pipe. The county did not have a code reference for it. I suggested that they ask the builder to evaluate the pipe with them and if he or she said it was acceptable to get it in writing.

I suggested it was not a "best building practice" and was a possible safety issue. The 4 90's and 30 foot maximum length are manufacturer's regs, not the UPC