The first problem that I had was while doing the engine break-in. Rans manual suggested putting a fan in front of the aircraft while doing the break-in to force air through the radiator. My engine kept trying to overheat, I did not let it. I shut it down and called Rans the next day. I explained the problem and they told me that I would need to run a water hose into the radiator scoop and let the water run through it while doing the engine break-in.

It would have been nice if that had been in the manual! I did that and it worked fine. When jojo hftf controls do this, you need to have a friend adjust the water pressure and only give it enough to keep it from over heating, you want it to get hot, that is what the break-in is for, but not overheat.

This may sound weird, but I've done it and it is want you will need to do to keep it from overheating. Once you are flying the air passing through the radiator is enough to keep it cool. The next problem to arise caused me to create The Crash Site. I had read a lot about not letting your engine overheat, but I had never read anything about letting it get to cool. On Aug. I watched my water temp and did not let it get too hot. I idled back and came back down.

The engine was running great and I was not having any problems with it. On Sept. I flew over my brother-in-law's farm and descended from 1, ft agl to about ft agl, at idle. The engine seized and I had no time to think. I tried to turn around and stalled the aircraft into a corn field. I believe that I scared the cylinders and pistons when I descended from 12, towhen I descended from 1, to a few days later it started to do the same thing again, but this time it seized.

Knowing what I know now, I can not see why it did not seize on the that first long decent. What happened is the cylinders cooled faster than the pistons, also at idle the engine is getting less oil, on an oil injected engine, but the prop is spinning faster during a decent, rather than level flight at the same throttle setting. From this I learned two things that I had not read in the books. First, when descending keep a little throttle, do not go under rpm unless you are on finale approach and give a little throttle every couple minutes during a decent.

The next thing was to put a thermostat on the engine in the the cooling system. The thermostat will help keep the engine from cooling too fast. On a Rans S12xl the water temp gauge is installed at a point just before the water enters the radiator. I also installed another one on the top of the cylinder head, there is a place for it that is plugged in the center of the head. I chose the VDO gauge because that is want Rans sent for all the other gauges.

They said that they would change their information to show the correct sender for that gauge. I had a hard time convincing them that they were wrong, they had that that's the one we've always sent for that gauge attitude, but with some help from VDO, they were convinced.

With both gauges I can keep a closer eye on that water temp. I never take off until the water temp at the radiator is degrees F. The water temp at the head is about degrees F. More on water temps later. The next problem to come along was water in my rotary valve oil reservoir, you will notice it when you see the level go up rather than down. Look inside and you will see that the oil has turned mint green.

If this happens, you will need to replace the rotary valve shaft and seals. This site contains all of the Rotax Service Information Documents.Re: Blue head overheating problem. This website uses cookies to manage authentication, navigation, and other functions.

Rotax 582 Engine Tips

By using our website, you agree that we can place these types of cookies on your device. View e-Privacy Directive Documents. Reconsider Cookies You have declined cookies. This decision can be reversed. Jump to Forum. OK, some issues here I'm hoping you can help me solve I have a brand new Rotax on my T Thruster, the engine has just turned over 25 hours on the clock.

It is driving a 68" 3 blade Brolga prop with 12 degree pitch blocks through a "B" reduction box at 2. Now this engine has always tended to overheat from run-in on.

I have a hard time keeping the temps below 80 degrees indicated on a brand new VDO gauge connected to a brand new sensor in the engine head, all connected together with the wiring that came with the unit. So, unless the new gauge is faulty, I think the temp gauge is reading correct. I will, however, double check this next time I'm at the airfield by sitting the sensor in a pot of water and heat it up.

I'll cross reference the temp gauge reading with a thermometer. I have only just pulled the prop[ apart to check the pitch, and I must say I was surprised to see such a fine pitch. I was expecting something near the high side of the range, around 16 degrees. I thought the overheating would be caused by too coarse a pitch setting and I could reduce the over temp reading by reducing the pitch - but not so. Another complication for you to digest; I have never been able to get full revs from theeither on the ground or when flying around.

Now I have to rethink. I checked the barrel slides in the carbies and they are opening right up at full throttle. So I have 2 issues - an overheating engine, and an engine that is not achieving full revs. Where do I go from here learned forumites? Ian, Could be the pitch and the mixture. Too coarse a pitch and and it causes both low RPMs and sometimes,but not always, overheating.

You might try reducing the pitch to achieve the full RPM and also raise the jet needle one notch to richen the midrange mix and cool things off. Raising the jet needle will not affect the WOT temps. That is about the pitch I was using on my 64" Powerfin, so I'm guessing you could go finer with no problems with a 68" prop. Roger Lee. Hi Ian, This sounds like a fuel delivery issue my first guess or a possible air leak.

Ian Jones. Given these parameters I was very surprised that the pitch blocks I have are at the lower end of the scale. I was thinking the egts were within the normal range according to Rotax documentation.

I will be changing the spark plugs this weekend so will inspect them as well for an indication of fuel mixture. Roger has suggested a fuel delivery issue so I'll do a bit of investigating there as well, although with my investigations already I think this is a low probability item.

I'll check anyway. Will also check the rubber carby flanges only 25 hours old to see if any air leaks there. Ian, One thing you might also check would be the thermostat.The World's first Lightsport and Ultralight Aircraft weekly web video webcast! If you have high speed internet and Windows Media Player installed you can watch our weekly Light Sport and Ultralight aircraft webcast!

Each issue is 25 to 35 minutes in length and is live on the web for 7 days. Click here for more information! Have you updated your Bing Carb! Failure to do so could result in an engine out! Our monthly newsletter packed full of information about ultralight aviation! In previous troubleshooting reports we have studied some common problems associated with the application of the Rotax engine for light aircraft use. We have also gone over some of the problems associated with the air cooled Rotax engines.

This report will deal with problems associated with the use of the liquid cooled and cc Rotax engines. Areas to be covered:. Several problems have been reported in the with the recoil system on the Rotax engine. The most widely reported is the cracking and eventual breaking of the outer housing. This breakage first appears as a hair line crack in a circular area about 4 inches in diameter, in the center of the housing.

This crack if not repaired or the recoil housing replaced, will cause the housing to completely break away. The loose parts may then fall into the magneto, or starter cup causing damage to the engine, or engine failure. Pilots have reported being able to weld the crack, the recommended solution is the replacement of the outer housing.

Part Another reported problem in the recoil assembly of the is the disintegration of the starting cup part This part is attached to the magneto with three bolts, and is located directly behind the recoil starter. Prior to the disintegration of this cup pilots have reported hearing an unusual noise coming from their engine, then complete loss of engine power.

The loss of power is caused in most cases by the parts and pieces of the cup, jamming between the block halves and the magneto, locking up the crankshaft. It is suggested the pilots check this area on a regular basis, and at the first sign of cracks or deteriorating replace the cup. The only one that I recommend is Rotax supplied starter. The starter should be used with a minimum 20 amp hour battery.

The battery leads should be no more than 5 feet in length. Several owners have reported burning up their engine wiring system when they failed to follow instructions and properly ground the engine. This is caused by the single small ground wire that is grounded to the coil mounting bolts, melting in the wiring harness, fusing wires together when the engine is cranked.

This wire is not large enough to carry the kind of current necessary. When using an electric start on a Rotax aircraft engine TWO grounds are required, one going from the engine to the airframe and another going from the engine to the negative side of the battery. These ground cables should be about the same diameter as that used on a GOOD set of booster cables, that you would use to jump start your car.When it comes to choosing an aircraft engine, reliability should be at the top of your list.

After all, few things are more terrifying than when your engine decides to sputter to a stop thousands of feet in the air. Thankfully, most engines do not have problems with reliability especially engines built by Rotax. Rotax aircraft engines are used by over aircraft manufacturers around the world. Rotax engines are known for their reliability and power to weight ratio.

As well, Rotax continues to design and build aircraft engines that go above and beyond other engines. With an experienced engineering team and many research and development facilities, Rotax keeps moving forward.

Even now, Rotax is advertising their newest engine set to be released in the later half of With that said, their older products are just as well made. Perhaps their most well-known product is the Rotax UL engine. This engine was built for ultralight aircraft, and is an upgrade of the previous Rotax design and features a larger engine bore and stroke. This increased the engine displacement, thus allowing the to produce more power using an rpm range that is much wider.

This gives the Rotax aircraft engine 65 horsepower to work with at a top rpm of The engine is a 2-cylinder engine and comes with a dual electronic ignition switch, two carburetors, water pump, thermostat, and an exhaust system.

The has a lot of power for relatively little weight. As well, the engine is easy to maintain. So much time as maintenance is often done and the engine is checked regularly, the Rotax will last hours of use and longer if properly cared for. While a proportion of may make the engine run smoother with less smoke, it leaves it without enough lubrication and may cause the motor to fail. This is why the oil injection system is so convenient.

It makes the proper mix for you. Taking off with a cold engine can lead to extended wear and tear on your engine, leaving scratches on the piston and cylinder walls. If you take good care of the Rotax engine, then you will be rewarded with a smooth ride that will last you hundreds of hours.

There is simply no better engine at its price point that is as reliable and robust as this one. Anderson June 2, Michael A. Best Review for Rotax Engine and Rotax You may also like. How to Get the Best Price on a Spring Cleaning the Inside of Your Car.Started by Jack21 Oct Posted 21 Oct My problem is that the engine refuses to start. Dribble some gas down the plug holes produces a second or 2 of firing.

Likewise squirt some gas up the carbs get it firing for a few seconds. I'm not an expert on most things including 2 stroke engines, so engaged a mechanic who is an expert on motorbike engines. Get some advice from a motorbike fanatic who still races bikes at the age of 80, and he suggests the crankshaft seals may be shot.

Rotax Engine Failure - Flying Impressive Sling2 LSA in SoCal

So take a deep breath, drink a few beers, sober up and decide to strip down the engine to check seals. In any case even if the seals were leaking I would have thought the engine would still fire, but run roughly? This old engine appears not to have any adjustment on the timing as pickup point is fixed and flywheel is keyed to the shaft. One suggestion is that the rotating plate downstream from the carbs has been mounted back to front?

Does the engine have 2 plugs or 4 plugs in it? Spark plug gap? That has bit me in the past. Much more than that and she just wont start. Run yes. Start not so much. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Existing user? Sign In Sign Up. Rotax start problems Started by Jack21 Oct Purchased on ebay supposedly in good running order. I am a design engineer, and the last plane I flew was a Tiger Moth in ! He checks everything that I have checked - spark, fuel, timing, but still will not run.

Engine all looks OK inside and engine looks to have had low hours. So start looking for ideas from the forum sites which leads me here!What's wrong with the Rotax ??? Primarily for general aviation discussion, but other aviation topics are also welcome. Toggle signatures. Mon Nov 03, I'm thinking of buying a VLA with the Rotax engine silvertop.

I keep hearing stories that they stop, leading to you falling out of the sky planes with low inertia don't glide well :shock:. Are the stories just that? Greatly exagerated reports stemming from old issues that are now resolved, or are there genuine problems wth this engine? I'm aware that the crank was originally recommended for replacement at hours - I believe this has now been amended to a measurement check being made every 25 hours after Is this correct, what is involved in the check, any expensive special tools or can you easily do it yourself?

Thanks in advance for any info. User mini profile. Russ Suggest you ask this question on the BMAA microlight forum, there are many folk there who will be able to give you chapter and verse on this sadly I'm not one of them Hello Russ, I flew an aircraft with a Rotax Silvertop for hours of trouble free flying.

They are an excellent engine and very reliable. Maintenance is key, once they are looked after they are great engines. Mixing the fuel is very important, I used to put ml of Shell VSX 2-Stroke oil into a jerry can before going to the pumps, that way the oil would be well mixed through with the petrol.

Also important to use the correct oil and one with a dye, and also transfer from Jerry can to a clear drum, so as your sure the oil is premixed. It is also important for a Rotax to be flown regularly, if left lying around for long periods of time a lot of corrosion can set in.

Tue Nov 04, Bearing wear can be checked very simply using a tool fitted to a spark plug port. There is an option to fit a oil injection pump to the which meters the correct amount to each carb over the rev range.This is the external coil mounted on the carb side of the engine by the water pump outlet. Failure is detected when a loss of rpm is noticed and or an ignition check is done on the system during preflight. The only solution is to replace the coil with a new one.

The Rotax has a history of ignition problems. The ignition coils have been reported to fail, and my recommendation is replacement at hours, or at the first sign of problems. Another thing that plays havoc with the ignition is when the magneto crankshaft seal fails.

Failure of this seal allows oil to come in contact with the points and condensers.

rotax 582 problems

This in turn can cause a poor condenser ground which will cause erratic engine performance. Oil on the points will usually result in hard starting and loss of rpm. This can result in an engine failure due to a hole in the top of the piston.

The engine should have its ignition timing checked every 50 hours or twice a year. Some pilots are using resistor plugs to suppress engine noise when then are using radios. The ignition is not strong enough to run both a resistor cap and a resistor plug.

rotax 582 problems

Some Rotax owners have reported the ignition missing in mid range when they have recently installed new coils or reconnected the ignition suppressor box. When connecting the coil leads on one coil the ground wire will go to the 1 side of the coil, with the points wire going to the 15 side. When hooking a tachometer up to a hook the tack to the generating coil wires.

DO NOT connect them to the ignition wires.

Best Rotax 582 Engine Review

While not part of the ignition system problems have been reported with the tachometer circuit on the For some reason the circuit seems to destroy tachometers, some in as little as a few minutes while others may last a year or so.

My only suggestion is to buy a tachometer from a company that has more than a years warranty or that will stand behind their products. Aircraft Spruce and Skysports are two companies that I recommend for this reason.

The top end consists of engine parts above the crankcase. On the failure of the wrist pin bearing is one of the most reported. Rotax updated the with a new style of piston and bearing. The new piston has a hole on the intake side of the piston which allows more lubrication into the wrist pin bearing. The new wrist pin bearing also has 31 bearings and no cage, this doubles the bearing area.

This update can be done to a To do it you will require an old piston, use it as a template for drilling the hole in the side of the piston and then update to the new wrist pin bearing. The next most frequent problem is cold seizure which we have already dealt with.

Rotax has also update the water pump impeller on both the and The new impellers now have a 6 mm hole in them, and are made of a more durable heat resistant material.

rotax 582 problems

Another update has been to the cylinder head. When connected back into the rad system these vents prevent air from being trapped in the front cylinder during climb out, which prevents engine seizure. The can be update to this system easily - but it does require the removal of the cylinder head and the drilling and tapping of the head to allow for placement of the vent.

Thermostats present another problem-while it is recommended that the and be run using thermostats they have been reported to fail, generally a the solder joints. It is recommended that the thermostat be inspected every 6 months or 50 hours. Rotaxliquid cooled aircraft engine troubleshooting.

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